Show quality- $1400.00- $2000.00 depending on quality and markings. All show kittens are spayed/neutered with no exceptions.
means a deposit has been placed but the decision on a particular kitten is not decided yet and that the kitten is not yet reserved and may become available pending decision.
means the kitten is sold.
means the kittens is available for adoption. Prices: The cost for a Pet quality Ragdoll kitten is $1200. This price includes spay or neuter, complete vet exam, vaccinations, and a kitten starter bag filled with a sample of the food your kitten is eating and toys they like to play with. A deposit of $200.00 will hold your kittens until he/she is ready to leave.
For more information and interest in availability My preferred method of contact is email. Please contact- Liz Nickel
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Amber x Dreamy
Cali x Hero
Emmy x Max
Retired cats- $450-900 We often retire our cats by the age of 3-5 years so we have retired cats often. Email me if there is one that is close to that age and you are interested in reserving them. email@example.com
Olivia x Max
Annabelle x Hero
Amber x Chase
Updated- 1/16/20 Sorry we don't have any available kittens. If you are interested in getting on my list for Spring kittens, email Liz at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Breeding Quality-We offer breeding quality cats to small registered catteries that practice early spay/neuter. Price depends on quality.
Grooming : Once a week or more often if you choose ,comb your Ragdoll with a Greyhound fine/medium tooth comb. This keeps their coat nice and gets rid of any loose hair and helps with hairballs. After, I follow up with a slicker and brush the hair through. You can use a waterless spray conditioner such as Vet's Best No Rinse Waterless Dry Shampoo or Miracle Coat to keep their fur soft especially during the dry winter months. They also smell very nice!
Declawing is inhumane. Provide your kitten /cat with a number of scratching posts and also clip their nails twice a month.
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Gracie x Max
Indoors only please! Because Ragdolls lack the instinct to defend themselves when attacked, they must be kept as indoor pets only.
The First Two Weeks: Restrict your new kitten to one room with food, water, toys and a litter box and scratching post for at least a week. Your bedroom or a child's bedroom is ideal. A bathroom is a great option as well. While holding the kitten, gradually take it out of the room. Extend the length and number of visits each day, until Kitty is comfortable outside the room. I have had great success with Feliway Comfort Zone Spray and Feliway Electric Diffusers to help in kitty transitions. The Feliway spray is great for vet visits. Spray the inside of your kitty carrier and let it dry. It should help to calm kitty while going to the vet.
Altering: All pet kittens will be altered at 11 or 12 weeks and allowed to go home with you at 12 or 13 weeks. This places the responsibility of altering and recovery with us. Altering a kitten before the traditional 6 or 7 months of age is considered "early age altering", females are spayed and males are neutered. There are several issues associated with this topic. Is it safe? Do kittens have problems with the anesthetics? Do they recover okay? Does early altering affect a kitten's health or growth? Let me address these questions. First, is it safe? Research has found that very young kittens suffer from no more complications than older cats undergoing altering at traditional ages. Second, do they have problems with the anesthetics? Young kittens do very well with the anesthetics when given appropriately. Third, do they recover okay? Younger pets actually recover earlier than older cats. Most kittens will be active and even playing within a few hours after their surgery. Finally, does early altering affect the kitten's health or growth? Many veterinarians have worried that early spaying and neutering would affect a cat's growth, future obesity, and overall health. Research has found that most of these concerns are unfounded. Growth, weight and overall health were very similar in cats early altered vs. cats altered at a traditional age.
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Feeding: Dry food should be "free fed" which means that the food is continually available. Our kittens are fed : Iams Kitten (purple bag) and Iam's Hairball( orange bag)- an equal mix of both. We have used this brand for many years and have had very good results with it and it is vet recommended. Fancy Feast canned food is also given twice a day during morning and evening . Kittens and cats will thrive as long as they are fed a well-balanced food. If you decide to switch foods, please do so very gradually. Do not give milk to your kitten because it is likely to cause diarrhea. Fresh water should be available at all times. If you add goodies from the table, the diet will no longer be balanced and may also cause diarrhea.
Immunizations: The combination distemper vaccine - Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (FVR), Caliciviral Disease (FCV) and Feline Panleukopenia (FP) - is given at eight weeks of age or older, at about 11 weeks and 15 weeks, again at one year later, and every three years after that. We use Merial PureVax Feline 3, a non-aluminum containing, Modified Live Vaccine. We strongly recommend against vaccinating for Feline Leukemia (FeLV) and FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis). Recent work at U.C. Davis (Peterson) suggests that the vaccine is not effective and may have injection site complications.
Scratching: Scratching is a natural behavior for cats. They do it to mark their territories, for pleasure, and for exercise. Punishing a cat physically simply does not work. You will break the trust and security that is the basis for your cat's relationship with you. Your kitten will be familiar with a scratching post. It's a good idea to have a scratching post at home. A good post should be tall enough for your Kitty to fully stretch her body, usually at least 28 inches tall, and should be very stable. Cats love sisal! Overstock.com is a good source for affordable cat furniture.
Please Do Not Declaw! If you are not familiar with what is done during the actual procedure, please see: http://www.declawing.com/ Declawing is an irreversible surgical procedure that involves amputating the last joint of the cat's "toes." When I begin handling newborn kittens, I make sure to massage their paws gently to get them used to having them touched. From the time your kitten is walking and playing, I will trim its claws. You will be amazed at how quickly trimming can be accomplished once you become practiced, especially when kitty's claws are trimmed at an early age. I find that baby nail clippers work the best. I simply cradle the kitty in my lap in a brightly lit location (often sitting on the carpet in front of my patio door). I do the front paws first because kitty tends to wiggle the most with the trimming in plain view. I gently squeeze the foot pad to extent the claw and then simply nip off the "clear" tip of the claw, being sure to avoid the "pink" or quick. Front claws have five nails, the back - four. I reward with some healthy kitty treats and lots of praise when I'm done. This little tip will make a big difference in kitty's behavior next time!
Play Toys: Kittens love to play. Provide harmless outlets for all that energy by supplying toys that are safe. Please don't let your kitten play with string or thread that can be eaten. A few suggestions: feather toys, catnip toys, jingle balls and catnip mats. A few favorites here are: Da Bird, ping pong balls, Bergan Turbo Scratcher ,Zanies rattle mice, cat tunnels, and laser lights.
Poisons: For a list of poisonous plants, please see: http://www.cfa.org/articles/plants.html The number one cause of vomiting and diarrhea in cats is the ingestion of foreign materials, including plants. Remember: any liquid that a cat steps into will be licked off its paws and can pose a danger, especially auto products. Most fatal poisonings are caused by antifreeze or Tylenol. Be sure to google the plants that you have prior to bringing kitten home. Even if you think they are up high and out of reach, the kitten could potentially eat a leaf that falls or find a way to get to it. If they are poisonous, it is just safer not to have them in your home.
Traveling with Kitty: Cats should be transported in a secure enclosure. Cats feel safer in a carrier, and however much they may complain about the car ride, it would be worse if they were loose. Try to avoid the temptation of buying a cardboard carrier. They don't hold up well and aren't secure.